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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.